This spring, Karma and I jumped onto the CDT New Mexico nobo (northbound). We started on April 16th because we were chomping at the bit to get hiking.
Both Karma and I have hiked the CDT before and we both wanted to go for round 2.
In 2015, we hiked the CDT in opposite directions. Karma hiked northbound and I hiked southbound.
After comparing notes, he talked about how awesome New Mexico was going north. Going south, I thought it was more meh.
Now, having hiked the CDT New Mexico both directions, I have to say that overall New Mexico is better northbound.
However, I am NOT convinced the entire trail is better northbound. Only time will tell.
List of Contents
Northbound Perks
There are many perks of going nobo in New Mexico, such as:
- The GILA RIVER is way more epic in the spring.
- Due to the CDTC insisting northbound is a good way to go has brought many new services to the boot heel region.
- The trail gradually ramps you up to higher elevation.
- Because spring is drier, there is less super sticky mud that makes your feet 5 pounds each.
- The CDT square signs are mostly facing for the nobos.
Southbound Perks
While I do feel like New Mexico is better north, there are a few perks to going south as well, such as:
- After Colorado, it feels like an easy victory lap.
- The trail gradually looses elevation and the climbs feel easy.
- Sobo hikers hike into New Mexico just after monsoon season, so water carries are not as long.
The BIGGEST reason the CDT New Mexico is better Nobo
Two words.
GILA. RIVER.
In my opinion, the Gila River (alternate) is the crown jewel of the CDT New Mexico.
It’s literally the best part of the trail in the state. Yes, it is hard. Yes, you will have wet feet every day. And, yes, the scenery is stunning.
Now, why is it better northbound?
Three reasons.
1.) Water Level: The water level is lower in the spring. This is important because as someone who is 5’2″, river crossings are far more pleasant when they are shallower. Going northbound, the lower Gila crossings were mostly between my knees and mid-thigh. The Middle Fork was between my ankles and my knees (with one exception around a rather successful beaver dam). Going southbound, the crossings were all above my knees after we spent quite a bit of time reviewing the best possible crossing. As we kept going south, the crossings became increasingly deeper.
2.) Water Pressure: The water pressure is less in the spring. This is important because you can see your footing more often and you can get better footing amongst the rocks easier. Going northbound, the river has a current, but it is not strenuous. On the flip side, going southbound, the river is raging. Full of fresh monsoon rains, the Gila River has a lot more power. This pressure obscures the bottom of the river and makes hiking poles quiver as you cross slowly.
3.) Daylight: In the spring, there is more daylight and thereby more warmth. Going northbound, April and May are closer to the summer solstice than October. With the high canyon walls, the daylight reaches the river bottom much sooner in the spring and stays longer in the evenings. Going southbound, in late October, the sun did not reach us until just after 10am and left us around 2:30pm. Without the sunlight, the canyon became very cold and the surrounding vegetation became covered in frost.
CDT New Mexico Nobo and Sobo Negatives
While I’ve just mentioned all of the positive aspects of both directions, there are a few negatives to mention.
Nobo Negatives
Yes, there are still a few, don’t get me wrong…
- The spring heat will drain you of electrolytes fast.
- Water carries are often 20-25 miles between sources.
- Road walking that early in the hike can be especially hard on the body. While the body is still building thru-hiking legs and calluses, it’s better to do it on trail for several hundred miles before a long paved road stretch.
Sobo Negatives
- The Gila is not as fun in the fall with less daylight, stronger water currents, and high water level.
- Daylight overall is frustrating as it decreases significantly in October.
- The CDT boot heel shuttle is not as amenable for sobo hikers. It exists, but can be hard to plan so far ahead.
CDT New Mexico Then and Now: 2015 vs 2022
The overall essence of the CDT New Mexico section is very similar. New Mexico has a mix of trail, cross country, and road walking. Inevitably, you will still loose the trail by following a stray cow path or missing a junction and need to navigate yourself back.
Trail Sections
I did see quite a few areas where new trail was built in the last 7 years. Whole sections had been redone and in a few cases re-routed as well.
For example, the CDT had new trail just south of Silver City. Instead of road walking around the ugly mine, there was new trail that continued north to the highway. Although the new trail felt great and went along a scenic ridge, it did not actually decrease the road walking miles into Silver City. Instead, it just added trail to a different road walk.
Another noticeable example was north of Cuba. Both Karma and I thought the trail seemed very unfamiliar leaving Cuba until we looked at the tracks from 2015 and saw a drastic difference in how the CDT entered the San Pedro Wilderness in Santa Fe National Forest. Great new trail with lovely switchbacks through there.
Cross Country Sections
I did notice that many of the cross country sections were not very cross country in 2022 because of the sheer numbers of nobo hikers. The classic “post to post” hiking sections had a foot track. Going south in 2015, there was not a lot of foot tread.
Also, the Gila River sections north and south of Doc Campbells were largely bushwhacks in 2015 with scattered bits of old trail. In 2022, almost all of those sections had trail and suggested crossing points marked with large cairns.
Basically, there was significantly less cross country travel in New Mexico that either of us remembered from 2015.
Road Walk Sections
The dreaded road walks. They’re not that bad. The road walks are about the same as before and nothing much has changed about them.
No, paved road walks are not inherently fun.
Yes, paved road walks hurt everyone’s feet.
But, they are part of trail and if a continuous footpath matters to you, then you’ll find your own fun. If you’re struggling, check out my Ultimate Guide to Having Fun on Road Walks.
Conclusion
Overall, I think think the CDT might be best as a flip flop. New Mexico is mostly better northbound, however, the rest of the trail is usually better southbound.
If a flip is not an option for you, most years south bounding is a better option despite what I said in this post.
But, the Gila. I waited 7 years to see the Gila River sections northbound and it was amazing. It made it all worth it. The Gila made all the road walks fine. It made the CDT New Mexico awesome.
If you liked this post, you may also like my post on what I did to prepare for thru-hiking the CDT and our favorite thru-hiking gear as a couple.
